A Greece for all seasons: my autumn roadtrip through the Peloponnese
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An out-of-season journey through the peninsula reveals Byzantine villages, deserted beaches and friendly tavernasAs I drove across the causeway which links the tiny fortress island of Monemvasia to the south-eastern coast of the Peloponnese, the Aegean sparkling on all sides, I recalled a line by Yiannis Ritsos, one of Greece’s greatest 20th-century poets. Ritsos lived in Monemvasia, in a house that is today a museum on a cobble-stretch by the tawny castle walls. A favourite passage goes: “The v
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