‘In the Presence of People No Longer Here’
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The city is an architectural gem, almost a stage set. Unlike much of Europe, it suffered no major damage during either world war. Proud rows of 19th-century buildings line cobblestone streets that wind through low hills, past leafy parks and dozens of sidewalk cafés. Modern apartment blocks ring its outskirts, but most of the city looks much as it did when it was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
The walls of a restaurant near City Hall are hung with dozens of brilliant caricatures—profiles c
The walls of a restaurant near City Hall are hung with dozens of brilliant caricatures—profiles c
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